Victoria's Other Secret Hides Behind an Uptown Barricade

Seimi Rurup

          I first found myself at this hidden gem one night when I was hungry for something new, too broke for a formal sit-down (like most recent college grads), and much too proud for Wendy’s. “The best Mexican food in New York City,” someone said, “On Broadway, not far from you.”

          It takes vigilance to find this humble temple of home cooking hiding beneath a block-long row of scaffolding. In fact, Victoria’s Restaurant is so authentically Mexican, it’s a “point and nod” kind of place if you don’t speak Spanish. It’s the sister of Guadalupana Deli, joined at the doorway in between shelves of Mexican snacks and plastic cases of baked goods. The room is small with bright orange walls and one colorful serape draped in front of the window as the lone frivolity. It’s all about the food.

          I became a fan with my first taste, the vegetable huaraches. Onion, lettuce, tomato, radish, avocado and queso blanco, all nesting on a warm pillow of dough, the handmade corn tortilla base.  Despite my notoriously low tolerance for any chili heat, I found myself instinctively topping the dish with a mysterious, unlabeled sauce that the waitress placed next to me. Salsa verde and a little bit of fresh lime juice. It needed nothing else.  

          For another $3.50, I  got a plate of fresh guacamole with a basket of chips that may be the best I’ve ever had. They’re thick and crispy and not over salted. The guacamole is simple and fresh with odd chunks of avocado that signifies hand-mashing. The waitress placed a small, black mortar of add-ins: minced onion, cilantro, and a quartered lime that magnified the impact of everything in the guacamole. That’s how it is at Victoria’s. Everything has a side of boosters.

          I’ve been back a few times.  The only disappointment is my lack of self control. I question my ability to stand up occasionally. But disappointed? Never. It made the walk home in the cold, pouring rain absolutely worth it.

3825 Broadway between 159th and 160th streets, west side of street. 212 928 5989.